Kunming, Dali, Lijiang tour

When we arrived in Kunming we were see the airport was right in the middle of the city just as our China Tour agency said. The airport is under construction at a fair

distance from Kunming.
At the Camillia Hostel we took a double room and joined the Hostels Association of China for 50RMB to get a 10RMB discount on each night in a YHA hostel. By the time we got to Dali we had recouped the membership fee. The hostel was quiet as has been most of the accommodation we have stayed in China.

We walked uptown on Sunday afternoon, found some specials which we searched at Top China Trip website before we are shopping. Afterwards we checked out the Hump hostel.
It was drizzling as we caught a local bus to the eastern bus Station for a 27RMB each ($4.50) 90 minute bus trip to Shilin. The huge new Eastern Bus Station is still under construction, which together with the thousands of Chinese heading off to all parts of the province and beyond really helped to make this an experience in organised chaos - somehow everyone managed to find the correct bus.

Thoroughly soaked we caught the bus back to Kunming (to add insult to injury they played a ear-piercingly, screeching Chinese comedy show in the bus on the way back) and had a few Dali beers to get over the whole experience.

It rained heavily night but we had a pleasant meal with a Canadian couple who gave us much valuable information about the next part of our trip through Yunnan Province to Dali, Lijiang and Zhongdian (Shangri-La).

Early next day (Tuesday) we caught a taxi to the West Bus Station, and what a difference! Everything was well organized and we were soon on our express bus to Dali and heading along a new expressway in relative comfort. That all ended at the detour about half way into the trip - we left the freeway and commenced a horror 90minute trip on local roads while it rained heavily all the way, up and down steep ravens, overtaking on blind bends, the road littered with broken down vehicles and heavy trucks. It was a miracle that we made it to Dali only an hour over schedule!

It was still raining when we made it to the Jade Emu Hostel owned by Aussie Dave. This is a really nice hostel built in the local NAXI style with a beautiful courtyard. We took the most expensive room 150RMB ($25) for a bit of comfort. The weather in Dali was not the best - wet but bearable.
One local described the weather as “like a baby’s face” - very changeable!

Dali was not what we expected - the old town is quite large (much bigger than Yangshuo, but it has all been rebuilt in the Naxi style not many truly old buildings remain (the result of an earth quake I think) - another example of Chinese mass tourism and it was relatively quiet when we were there! Marauding tour groups endlessly parade the main thoroughfares, headed by the ubiquitous flag waving tour leaders who harangue their Chinese and Korean customers to keeping the schedule and buy more souvenirs. While the old town is large, it is filled with many shops selling the same or similar touristy product.

At night time the streets are a lot quieter and it is easier to appreciate Dali’s charm. There is a vast array of bars and good restaurants to choose from - we had some terrific meals at Namaste (Indian), Café Go Go, Jacks Place, the Tower, Kaiyi’s and Clare’s. Meals are 20 - 40RMB ($ 3.33 - $6.66 for mains). We bought some warm gear for the trip up to Lijiang and Zhongdian, and had a great foot massage on the last day.

It was raining when we left Dali by express bus to Lijiang, another 4 hour trip. We eventually found the International Youth Hostel 80RMB ($13.33) (we also later found another with the same name a Chinese practice it seems) after a confusing walk around the myriad of narrow lanes which form the old town.

Lijiang is a mix of local Wenxi culture and buildings, with a smattering of Tibetan thrown in for good measure. The old town has a number of open water ways flowing through the town (you need to be careful not to fall in) and large water wheels at the town entry.


It is quite large like Dali and just as commercialized, but there are a large number of good bars and restaurants - that is bars by day excellent Momo), N’s Kitchen, and Le Petite Paris to name a few we ate in. Just like Dali there are a myriad of souvenir shops all selling much the same wares for much the same prices.

That all about the tour around the city Yunnan and we spent three happy days with the local people there and thanks for our guide Amy from China Tour, Tomorrow we will take the overnight train transfer to Nanning.